Native to Southern Asia from Pakistan to Korea, several species of the tropical freshwater Gourami are popular aquarium fish. Fish keepers who have buyers at the ready may choose to breed them.
Gourami care and breeding (spawning) requirements vary slightly from species to species, but most Gouramis have the same basic needs. If you are considering spawning your Gourami, learn the basic requirements, and then check the profile for your specific species to see if they have specific needs.
Aquarium Setup and Tankmates
Gouramis are relatively undemanding, and therefore are well suited to most community aquariums. Choose non-aggressive tankmates and of similar size. Dwarf Cichlids are suitable, as are characins and other labyrinth fish. Because the males may be territorial, keep only one male Gourami in a tank. If space is large enough to allow each to claim its own territory, two may be tried.
Fine to medium size substrate of neutral color is preferable. Optimum water temperature for most gourami species is 74–79 degrees Fahrenheit (24–26 degrees Celcius). The water pH should be neutral to slightly acidic, with low hardness. Plant the tank well with Cryptocoryne or other sturdy vegetation such as Java Fern or Vallisneria.
Gouramis will eat almost any food; however, it's important to vary the diet to ensure balanced nutrition. A combination of dry as well as frozen and fresh/live foods will provide a well-rounded diet. When conditioning fish prior to breeding, offer fresh vegetables such as lettuce, cooked peas, and spinach, as well as live foods such as blackworms, brine shrimp, and glass worms. All breeding specimens must be well-fed and healthy before moving them to a breeding tank.
The water level in the breeding tank should be low at six inches of water depth. Lighting should be subdued, and the water temperature should be slowly increased for several days prior to spawning until it reaches the mid-80s. The water movement should be minimal so the bubble nest is not disturbed. In all other ways, the tank should be set up exactly like a standard tank.
All gourami fish are egg layers that build bubble nests for spawning and raising their young. Place some floating plants or other floating objects in the tank as most species of Gourami build bubble nests that are purposefully adhered to these floating objects. Some experts use pieces of styrofoam coffee cups as the floating platforms in the breeding tank.
Carefully monitor all conditions of your tank, such as temperature and pH both before and after breeding. Also, make sure the tank has a lid. While the adult fish do not require this, the young fry are very sensitive to any temperature shifts.
Selecting a Male and Female
If you don't already know the sex of your gouramis, examine them closely. Females usually have more rounded dorsal and anal fins while male fins are more pointed. Females will often swell in width when they are carrying eggs. In some species, there may be distinct color differences between males and females. In any case, it is important to choose a healthy pair with a female that is clearly carrying eggs.
Transferring a Breeding Pair
Move your selected female to the breeding tank first, providing the fish a chance to acclimate and locate various hiding spots. After a day or so, you can move the male to the tank. Watch to make sure the female has places to hide at times, as this will be needed for the egg-laying process. If the male harasses the female to the point of causing scrapes or preventing the female's hiding and seclusion, try adding a second female to the tank to distract the male.
It may take several days for the fish to breed. In the meantime, if your species is one that builds a bubble nest, the male may be constructing it among the floating plants or objects. The male may even use a corner of the tank as an anchor for the nest.
After the female lays eggs, which number in the hundreds or even thousands, the male will bring each egg individually to the bubble nest. If the species is not a bubble nest builder, the eggs will remain randomly distributed around the tank.
The female should be removed very soon after laying as it may begin eating the eggs. The male should be left in the breeding tank, as it is the male's duty to care for the nest and fry until they can swim freely. Once that happens, the male also can be removed. For species that do not form bubble nests, remove both parents immediately after spawning to prevent egg predation.
Caring for Fry
After the Gourami fry are free-swimming on their own, it will take several weeks for them to grow large enough to move to a normal tank. Initially, the fry will eat the egg yolks, but as soon as they are free swimming, you will need to begin providing nutrients.
Begin by feeding specialized foods that are small enough for the tiny fry to consume. Options include liquid fish food, rotifers, or infusoria, all of which are available at aquarium stores. Feed often, six times a day or more. Once the fish are larger, at about four to seven days, begin feeding baby brine shrimp.
Make sure to keep the water clean. Just as you would in a normal tank, make partial water changes, but be careful not to scoop out the tiny fry by mistake. You will almost certainly end up with more surviving fish than you can keep yourself, so seek out people to buy or adopt. After a few weeks, when they appear able to eat standard fish food, you can move the young gourami to their larger home.
Popular Gourami Species
There are roughly a dozen species of gourami that are commonly seen in the aquarium trade. Several of them have more than one color morph but are still the same species. Common gourami species include:
- Banded Gourami - Colista fasciata
- Blue Gourami - Trichogaster trichopterus
- Chocolate Gourami - Sphaerichthys osphromenoides
- Dwarf Gourami - Colisa lalia
- Honey Gourami
- Kissing Gourami - Helostoma temminckii
- Leeri Gourami - Trichogaster leeri
- Moonlight Gourami - Trichogaster microlepis
- Opaline Gourami - Trichogaster trichopterus
- Pearl Gourami - Trichogaster leeri
- Powder Blue Gourami
- Red Gourami - Colisa lalia
- Snakeskin Gourami - Trichogaster pectoralis
- Sunset Gourami - Colisa chuna
- Thick lipped Gourami - Colisa labiosa
- Three-Spot Gourami - Trichogaster trichopterus